Completion of the SRB001 Freelance DEUTZ Style 0-4-0DM chassis including the running gear and motor withthe body work following.
Body work for the SRB001 Freelance DEUTZ Style 0-4-0DM
In my first post about this new 009 kit of a Deutz i got as far as adding ballast into the chassis. I then created added the cranks without the rods. This is quite a delicate operation and I needed to ensure the Locktite didn't go into the wrong places else I would have had a seized mechanism. It didn't but it was all a bit tight.
On the advice of the kit manufacturer, Stuart Brewer, I ran a small drill with a buffing pad up against the large flywheel/gear which turned the lay-shaft and wheels. I did some cleaning out of the threads in the screws and gears first to ensure there wasn't bits of metal caught up as there had been a lot of swarf as I filed and drilled things on the chassis. After about 5 minutes each way with the drill the mechanism was running a lot more freely.
I started the body - the foot plate is a little thin so you need to be careful not to bend it in the construction. First step was to make the bonnet up and I found the riveted strips quite tricky as they want to slide around out of place! For the bottom ones make sure you leave the tabs protruding. I didn't at first and this caused some pain later when adding the bonnet and cab sub assembly to the foot plate!
The cab sides are straight forward, the portholes are delicate - leave the cross hair wire fret in the hole to help you Centre the window frames. There are two tiny strips to be added each side of each doorway and this is quite tricky to get spot on.
The roof has a double curve but is reasonably easy to fit if you make small adjustments and keep offering up to the cab.
I then added the crank rods having made them a loose enough fit. Next the pick ups were installed which was fiddley but works well. The phosphor bronze pickups were curved a little so that their springyness ensured there will be contact with the wheels at all times. Once done I tested the circuits with a meter to make sure there would be not shorting. Next I added the motor and belt drive and put it on my rolling road to test. Again it was a little stiff but everything worked! I then oiled up the moving parts and set the engine on the rolling road for 30 mins running in each way.
The body was removed, cleaned and finished with filler where needed. Then I undercoated it with U-POL Acid 8 etch primer. The motor and pickups wer removed from the chassis and Carrs blackening used. At the moment I need to redo this - possibly paint it as well to get the finish I want.
- Phosphor bronze pick up wipers soldered onto the pcb which is bolted through the cross member. - Wed, September 17, 2014
- Long bolts for the pcb before cropping - Wed, September 17, 2014
- motor wired to the pick ups - Wed, September 17, 2014
- Motor mounted on the bulkhead - Wed, September 17, 2014
- footplate floor with location nuts soldered in place - Wed, September 17, 2014
- Cab front with detail soldered into place before bending the cab sides back - Wed, September 17, 2014
- Rear cab end with details soldered in place and polished up before bending the cab sides into place - Wed, September 17, 2014
- Cab sides bent and dry fitted to the footplate - Wed, September 17, 2014
- assembly dry fitted to the chassis to check clearances - plenty! - Wed, September 17, 2014
- bonnet assembly - Fri, September 26, 2014
- cab front and bonnet joined as a sub assembly. The tabs stick through allowing you to solder inside - Fri, September 26, 2014
- Cab back and cab and bonnet sub assembly soldered to footplate - Fri, September 26, 2014
- Roof added - Fri, September 26, 2014
- Exhaust and filter added to bonnet and body added to chassis. - Fri, September 26, 2014
- Body undercoated - cocktail sticks through the nut holes to help hold it - Fri, September 26, 2014
- Chassis blackened and locomotive assembled! - Fri, September 26, 2014
- I reversed the chassis so that the gear and pulley do not protrude in the cab area - Fri, September 26, 2014